Eating: Isla Holbox

Mexico_Cheap_Travel_Isla_Holbox_Border_Tramp_1

Photos of Food!

Isla Holbox is a fisherman’s island. Every day, late in the afternoon, the boats come cruising into shore full of fish. You’ll see the men in their golf carts waiting for news of what today’s catch is and where to get it. At the restaurants you’ll get the notice from your server that they also have a fresh catch of the day.

“Oh, y tambien tenemos pulpo,” our server said, informing us of the octopus they had bought that day and were anxious to sell.

We could have had it in ceviche, grilled, spicy, or however we preferred. But it was a bit out of our price range. Luckily on Isla Holbox, it’s easy to have a fresh fish dinner and keep your budget.

At around 3:30 pm, Xavi headed down to the beach to see what was coming in. His amigo Chico, who had been a bit of a guide for him the day before, told him there was fresh liza coming in. For $50 pesos we bought two fish, weighing about a kilo each. You could tell they were fresh from the clarity of their eyes and firmness of their flesh.

We got a knife and cutting board from the hostel kitchen and headed to the beach to fillet the fish. After Xavi had carved out four meaty fillets, all it took was a frying pan, some butter, vegetables and rice before we had an exquisite dinner and enough food leftover for a delicious breakfast the following morning. All for just over $2usd a piece.

Restaurants:

Restaurants are everywhere in the tiny downtown of Isla Holbox: both the themed and ambient varieties, as well as simple booths set up with plastic chairs. Really cheap eats aren’t as prevalent here. (When on an Island, expect to pay Island prices.) Thus when fresh fish is affordable and kitchens available, it’s hard to pass up a home-cooked meal. When heading out to eat, most of the small and larger restaurants have similar prices, starting around P$70 for a dinner entree…

Keep an eye out for the hand written menus, and eats here are normally on budget! There are places that line the main square. Edelyn’s Pizza is here, as well as several Mexican places. We visited Pollo Mago a few years ago, and though prices have gone up, they still aren’t as high as other places, and the food is still good. Just down the street from them, the colorful and unassuming Colibri was frequented by the tourist crowd. On the north side of the park, you can find some P$55 menu options, including breakfasts and a filling plate of enchiladas at Limoncito.

For Smoothies in town, you can go just about anywhere. For Coffee, there is a shop on the bottom floor of Los Peleones, at the main Zocalo. Also El Cafecito, one block from the beach, and two streets West of the park, has coffee and sandwiches. And further down, Le Jardin is a french place with excellent breads, coffee, and excellent breakfasts as well.

Pizzeria Edelyn : Border Tramp pick for Pizza on HolboxMexico_Cheap_Travel_Isla_Holbox_Border_Tramp_Pizzeria_Edelyn_Pizza_Comida_1

After spending our final day on Isla Holbox soaking in the island sun and drinking ice-cold beer on the pier, Xavi and me realized we hadn’t eaten since breakfast — it was now 9 pm. A couple of nights before, a group of locals had a pizza dinner at the hostel with David, the owner – and it smelled delicious. So we decided that on an island with an ever-increasing population of Italians, why not?

So happens we chose the one pizzeria that is owned by locals and it turns out it was delicious — and right on budget. We had an entire liter of beer with us from earlier, but the owner greeted us and said it was no problem that we bring our own drink in.

Previously a vegetarian, I was adamant that we get the vegetarian pizza, and Xavi did not object. A large (big enough for three people, honestly) came with fresh tomato, green and red peppers, olives, onion and avocado — all for $7usd ($100 pesos). (Medium-sized pizzas start at $80pesos) You can get single or double topping meat and/or vegetable pizzas for the same price. With delicious crispy thin crust, fresh toppings and some spicy red pepper flakes on top, it was a perfect ending meal to a wonderful stay on the island.

Taco Queto

more photos of TacoQueto

more photos of TacoQueto

Taco Queto was described to us as the place that sells THE BEST BURRITOS EVER. And really, they are pretty damn good. Maybe it is the generous amounts of cheese and sauce, or the meat itself, which is the only filling in the burrito (this is not Chiplotle, after all.) But they are delicious, and filling, and all made inside of a food cart that opens up around 6pm or 7pm. At the North East corner of the park, head towards the ocean. They have a large tent with plenty of seating on your left. Beers aren’t sold, but it’s alright to bring your own.

 

 

Antojitos Las PanchasLas Panchas

Just steps from the beach, Las Panchas is a popular spot for seafood. Nothing fancy, and not overpriced. Prices here are consistent with the rest of the Island. Open for breakfast at 7am, lunch is served from 1pm until 5pm, so arrive early. The fish is fresh and the portions generous: the ceviches grandes here are a bit pricey ($14usd/$200pesos), but the size of the plate is indeed grande as well. There are more affordable option like fillets of fish or chicken  (served sautéed with garlic, breaded, grilled) for P$70-P$90. And if you’re on a budget, or on the go, ask about the anojitos (list on the wall), for basic eats, for cheap.

 

Pollo Mago

Pollo Mago is situated just off the main square and serves up chicken and pork however you’d like it — fajitas, empanizado (breaded), frito (fried), or asado (roasted). All come with beans, salad, rice and tortillas for around P$65. They normally will have a seafood option as well, depending on what the boats brought in that day. Typical traditional Mexican food for a decent price, a good option if you don’t feel like cooking your own food for the night.

 

Limoncito

more photos of Limoncito

more photos of Limoncito

Located on the main square, Limoncito offers your standard island menu: breakfasts, tacos, enchiladas, guacamole…. Minus some of the seafood options you’ll see at other places, there are some healthy salads on the menu, and a few baguette sandwiches as well. Nothing fancy, but always filling. And the smoothies are great.

 

 

 

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