El Retiro Lodge

CAUTIONARY NOTE: El Retiro is a beautiful lodge in a beautiful setting and we genuinely enjoyed our stay here. However we do stress the importance of using the lockers provided in reception. And don’t be surprised if you feel like the bags you left in your room have been rifled through. Cash seems to be the target for roaming fingers here.

Tucked away deep in the Guatemalan jungle, surrounded by lush, green mountains El Retiro Lodge offers a stunning environment for trampers heading to Semuc Champey.  El Retiro is located in Lanquin, about an hour outside of Semuc Champey.  You can walk right up the road into town for an internet cafe or some cheaper eats, but you may find it hard to leave El Retiro at all.

The lodge is made up of several thatched roof cabins holding private rooms, lofts, and dorms (110Q, 80Q, 45Q).  Be sure to take note that once you’ve made it to Lanquin, you won’t find an ATM anywhere, be sure to get out enough quetzales before you leave for your stay, food, and trip to Semuc Champey.  Luckily if you are running low, El Retiro accepts credit or debit cards for accommodations, food, and the shuttles, however with a 10% fee.

At the bottom of the hill you see the Rio Cahabon with its icy blue water rushing through the property with ropes stretching across for balance when you decide to cool off with a dip – be sure to hold on because the current gets very strong in the middle!  There are plenty of hammocks for relaxing, a ping pong table, a volleyball net, and even a sauna (10Q per use) to take advantage of.

The rooms are all very basic containing nothing no more than the single or double beds with linens provided, and a table or shelf.  There are lockers in the larger ten-person dorm at the bottom of the hill, and some smaller ones at reception.  We definitely suggest using these lockers, especially at night while visiting Semuc Champey.  And although the lofts can be the best deal, be aware that there are no lockers or doors (just a curtain) for the rooms, so keep all your belongings in a safe place.  We had a run-in with an intruder during the night while staying in a loft, luckily the stolen items were returned, but it was not an experience we would want repeated for anyone.  Dorms are not much more expensive and provide you with a door, and some peace of mind knowing you have fellow travelers with similar concerns like not being robbed.  The bathrooms are all shared and fairly clean.  Some showers offer hot water, so you might want to do a few tests before succumbing to a cold one.

All in all, El Retiro is a beautiful, affordable, and quality place to stay.  They offer guided trips to Semuc Champey for 165Q (however if you walk into town you can find the same trip for 140Q) and also shuttles to Antigua, Flores, and Rio Dulce for standard prices — all under 200Q.  We enjoyed our time at El Retiro and some fantastic fellow trampers.  If Semuc Champey is on your itinerary (which it should be!) El Retiro is the place to stay.

El Portal

Located at the entrance to Semuc Champey, El Portal  is supremely located. There are dorm style cabanas you can get for $5usd (40 quetzales). The location is premium, but you do make some sacrifices — such as being at the mercy of the park restaurant.

The restaurant isn’t overly expensive, but it certainly won’t help you save any money either. Everything is between $3 and $10usd. So unless you plan ahead (which is always the smart thing to do when tramping through remote locations) and bring some non-perishable food to eat, and a couple bottles of rum to drink — you’ll be at the mercy of what’s on offer at the lodge. But the proximity to Semuc Champey is definitely a draw here.

Entry to the park is $6.50usd (50 quetzales) so if you planned ahead and only have the $5usd cost of a bed, you could spend a few days in the park without hurting your budget too much — think about it!

Take me to EATING : LANQUIN/SEMUC CHAMPEY

Take me back to LANQUIN/SEMUC CHAMPEY // Take me back to GUATEMALA // Take me HOME