Author Archives: Julia

Prison Hammocks in Valladolid

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Hammock Shopping in Valladolid Mexico (2)

Finding the best hammocks in Mexico, even if it means going to a Mexican prison to do so

“I want to stop at the prison. It will just be five minutes. Is that okay?” Jeffrey turned around to survey the blank, early morning stares from his fellow passengers.  No one voiced opposition; no one asked questions. It was early for debate. We were nine in total that morning: Jeffrey and his cousin, Marga, a group of four friends, a couple in their thirties, and myself in the van together. We came from various countries spread across at least three continents. Only maybe half of the group spoke any Spanish. We all slept at the same hostel and had all met at 7am for the first colectivo leaving the Mexican city of Valladolid for the wondrous, famous, high-traffic ruins at Chichén Itzá. (We had each been advised that if we didn’t make the first bus, the amount of people we would see at the ruins would seriously ruin the visit.)

The stop at the prison was a quick detour where we could shop for hammocks; the best made hammocks in the Yucatán, Jeffrey told us. (A quick Google search affirms that others agree that these hammocks are in fact the best… though of course there is debate.) Made by the inmates at the prison, these heavy-duty nylon hammocks have earned something of a reputation among hammock-seekers across the globe. Plus, they come in such a wide array of colors that Crayola would be inspired by the variety.

Size Large Hammock

Large Hammock

Those of us interested in buying a hammock or tired of sitting in the van were walking through the open air rows of hanging, woven, nylon colors while a guard watched close-by. We learned that the hammocks come in at least two sizes; we’ll say small and large. The small-sized hammocks looked easily big enough for two people. The large-sized hammocks looked big enough for my family to fit inside (see above photo.)

After a few moments of browsing it was clear that most of us would be leaving empty-handed. For some among us, the idea of carrying such a large item for several weeks or months, stuffed inside an already full backpack, was enough to squash the idea. For others nearing the end of a journey, pockets nearly empty, finances were the deciding factor… because the best hammocks in the Yucatán are an investment.

Hammock Shopping in Valladolid Mexico (4)

$1000 pesos, that is (around $75 USD.)

An investment in years of comfort and relaxation, no doubt; but still an investment. The asking price for a small hammock is around 600 pesos. The large hammocks are priced at 1000 pesos. In U.S. Dollars, the prison hammocks sell for roughly $45-$75, before any bargaining. And if I were to survey all the hammocks sold in the Yucatán, I would guess that I would find them sold much cheaper and much, much more expensive. As a comparison, the online company, Mérida Hammocks, sells their hammocks for between $22-$50 USD. Seaside Hammocks, also online, sells their hammocks for $34 to over $300 USD! I can’t comment on the quality of hammock from either company.

I can say, however, that I asked Jeffrey about his purchase from the prison. One year later, and he is still happy.

Helpful Hammock Information:

If you’re serious about owning a high-quality hammock, the prison near Valladolid is worth a visit. And if you want to do some reading before you make a purchase, the following websites will answer most questions you would have about Yucatán hammocks.

Merida Hammocks offers a FAQ on their website. This includes information on cotton vs. nylon, how to choose hammock sizes, and how to hang and care for your hammock.

Seaside Hammocks also has a FAQ page, with even more information. (These guys are serious about hammocks.) They also offer advice on How to Choose your Hammock and descriptions of the various hammock types: Mayan (the variety in the Yucatán), Nicaraguan, Brazilian, and American style.

(Spoiler alert: The American-style hammocks are the least comfortable of all.)

Palenque Ruins without a Guide

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The Palenque Ruins are incredible.

These ruins, in our opinion, give the larger and more expensive Chichen Itza a run for its money. And what is great about Palenque is that you have the opportunity to learn about this history of the civilization that once called this park home. Impressive structures are one thing to appreciate on their own, but historical context helps to deepen the appreciation.

You’ll most likely be approached by several guides when you arrive at the park, if you are let off in the parking lot where the buses park. The prices we were quoted were P$200 for a tour in Spanish, and P$250 or P$300 in English, per person. Some guides charge more or less, sometimes depending on the size of the group. If you are interested, it’s not a bad idea to try to get together with others for a tour, as the price will often be lower. The tour then covers both sides of the Park, a quick walk through the un-excavated jungle area, and a more detailed walk through the Archaeological Site.

However, if you are interested in learning more about the history and culture of Palenque, but not interested in using a guide, here is our recommendation:

On the way to the Palenque Ruins, ask to be dropped off at the Museum, and start your tour here. Inside is a crash course on the Mayan Civilization in Palenque and the Ruins themselves. You can read a lot of the same general information that guides will share with you (though of course this doesn’t allow you to ask questions.) The ticket you buy for the museum will also be your entrance to the ruins. After leaving the museum you can catch a bus to the park entrance, or walk to the top of the hill. But our recommendation is to take the path less traveled, the back entrance to the ruins. Leaving the museum simply walk across the road that leads to the park to find the entrance.  This entrance offers a well-maintained trail that passes by some beautiful waterfalls and smaller ruins. Following this path, you’ll enter the Archaeological Park near the back of the ruins, away from the parked buses and food vendors and groups of guides trying to offer their services. There is a ticket booth at the entrance to this path, and someone will be there to collect the ticket that you obtained at the museum.

Waterfall on the Path to the Ruins

Waterfall on the Path to the Ruins

NOTE: Even if you take the colectivo to the main entrance of the ruins, you can still exit the ruins via this waterfall-laden walking path, and end your tour at the museum. This is the more common route, as colectivos will drop you off at the main entrance to the Ruins if you don’t specify another destination. But for getting some background information before you visit the site, starting at the museum is recommended.

Road in front of the Museum

The road in front of the Palenque Museum (Taquilla=Ticket Booth)

 

You will have to tell the driver ahead of time that you want off at the museum, and he may try to discourage you from taking this route. You may be told that you can’t get to the ruins from the museum, but you can.

Spend your time in the museum, then walk up the hill to the Ruins, and you’ll exit the ruins at the parking lot where the buses park. Through this parking lot, you can find your way to the non-excavated part of the ruins. Don’t miss out on this! In the undiscovered part of the ruins, there isn’t  much to see other than piles of crumbling stones; the foundations of  less majestic buildings and homes. However, it is one of our favorite spots in the park.

For more information on how to get to the ruins, head back to Doing: Palenque.

NOTE: The information above is based on staying in town and taking a bus to the ruins. If you are staying at El Panchan, it would be possible to walk to the museum on the path that follows the road, and avoid the bus altogether. You can also try hitching a ride to the museum, though be aware that the buses are often strict in their 20 peso fee, regardless of how far you are going.

Market shopping for the holidays

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Artisan Markets and More

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As Christmas comes nearer, I’m reminded of my travels last winter. Being thousands of miles from home around the holidays renewed my interest in holiday shopping. I browsed markets willingly and often with friends and family in mind. I limited most of my purchases to items that could be easily transported for weeks or months; thus, anything made of fabric was a good option, including a table runner and many small bags and coin purses. But I also shipped a box of presents home which allowed for larger and bulkier purchases.  In addition to the items that I came across repeatedly and that seemed available no matter where I went, below are a few items that weren’t as typical, and that I was not sure I would see again.

Wool Products from San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas, Mexico

One of my favorite spots for browsing handmade goods in all of my travels, the artisan market in San Cristobal has items that I didn’t find anywhere else on my trip. Woven and embroidered items are two of the region’s specialties, and everything from socks and ponchos to tiny handcrafted wool stuffed animals are found in the market stalls. The tiniest of animals are pretty much a must-buy if you have younger siblings or nieces and nephews back home. To get an idea of what the different varieties are, you can check out the products available at www.sweetbirds.com. For others on your list, hats and slippers and socks are great options for those returning to colder climates.

Spanish Language Cookbook from Lake Atitlan

It is hard to say how long copies of this book will be available. In late 2013 a few locations in San Pedro, on Lake Atitlan sold the book. Today if you ask around at the bookstore or museum in town, you may still find copies on the shelves. Celebrating the culinary traditions of the communities surrounding Lake Atitlan, this cookbook includes descriptions of eight municipalities surrounding the lake, as well as traditional recipes, each with a brief history of their origins, to go along with each locale. It is only available in Spanish, but for a cook who speaks the language, it’s an awesome gift to find.

The book title is “La Ruta del Sabor: gastronomia del Lago Atitlan”

Farm Fresh Goodies from Caoba Farms in Antigua, Guatemala

While fresh produce isn’t something I’d recommend trying to ship home for the holidays, this organic farm located walking distance from downtown Antigua also offers an impressive collection of value-added products that are perfect gifts for those who appreciate where their food comes from. Organic coffee, chia seeds, and coconut oil are a few of the newer products that Caoba has added since my visit in late 2013. A number of small goodies like bags of candied ginger and herbal products are also available. The farm, which you can read about here, is a model for sustainable agriculture in the region and beyond. Learn more at www.caobafarms.com

Tailored skirts, pants, headbands and more in San Marcos, Guatemala

If you’ve fallen in love with the patterns on indigenous clothing around Lake Atitlan, there is a tiny shop in San Marcos that I think you should visit. While you can find clothing in several of the markets around the lake, one has to appreciate this particular man’s entrepreneurial efforts when it comes to selling clothing to tourists. Everything is hand-made, and you can custom order whatever your heart desires. A friend had two headbands made. Myself, feeling particularly practical that day, wanted to do something about the fact that I repeatedly would buy or refill a bottle of water and then leave it somewhere a few minutes later. I had a bag made that fit a water bottle perfectly and could be worn over the shoulder. (Also perfect for a bottle of wine, I would later discover.) If you want a gift that is truly unique and tailored to someone special, this is it.

Following the main walking path from the dock, this unassuming shop sits inside a cement building on your left. During my visit, there were shirts and pants and a beautiful hand-made guitar bag hanging on the outside of the building, and a pile of coconuts just on the other side of the walking path. Inside sits a tailor with a sewing machine and piles of fabric pieces.

Prison Hammocks near Valladolid, Mexico

I think this item is deserving of a separate post. But for now, if you are staying in Valladolid, Mexico and planning on visiting Chichen Itza, there is a prison between the two locations where I was informed that the sturdiest and best-made hammocks in the region were found. Judging by the hammock I had purchased a few years before on a beach in Nicaragua, the hammocks at the prison were absolutely of better quality. They are available in two sizes: single and double. The single looked big enough for two, however, and the double for an entire family, though we didn’t put this to the test. The came in all colors as well. Be warned that if you have a lot of traveling left to do, these will add a fair amount of bulk and weight to your pack. But for that person deserving of the best, these are the way to go.

Need more info? Have a favorite gift from your travels, or a shopping story? Email juliaflint@bordertramp.com

First Impressions: Caye Caulker Belize

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Snorkle tours, local lifestyle and lobster hunger that can’t be sated — Caye Caulker Belize

By: Laura Lazorski

It’s a good thing that Caye Caulker is so nice because I couldn’t get out of Belize City fast enough. It had a mangy film to it that the ferry to Caye Caulker blasted away with saltspray. The water got clearer and clearer as we progressed to the island, and after a short 30 minutes we pulled into a wind beaten dock in the white sun. The water here was clear as an aquarium, and silver fish cut by. I saw a barracuda circle suspiciously.

People are friendly on the island, and almost immediately we were being led to a hostel, called Dirty McNasty’s, by a local, named Gilbert. He does get incentive to scout for hostels (wink). But beyond that he is friendly as are the other islanders. Here, when you refuse sellers’ wares they just wave hello next time they see you rather than pushing the goods anew. They remember you, and you all end up at the split or the reggae bar later on.

The split is where everyone goes to swim. It is a deep channel carved by a hurricane that tore the island in two a long time ago. Supposedly, a crocodile lives there too, but I never saw him. There is a fun bar there, and a cement breaker, and everyone flops around drinking Belikin in the shallows or while treading water from the dock’s edge. The island’s motto is go slow. You see it scrawled over cement or worked into tour advertising schemes. Go slow the people remind you. It is a walking island except for a few ATV’s, so the people you pass all have a measured gait and an eye to the horizon. “Go slow, girl” they remind me as I hurry from the split to the hostel. It took a while to settle in, and I slowly began to wonder “where was I rushing to all the time?”

I came to Caye Caulker with the intent to get my open water diver’s certification. But alas, when we checked on the price it had gone up $100 and now cost an expensive $400 U.S. to be certified. Boo. We went to every dive shop on that island and of the few that even offered the class, $400 was the lowest quote. It was just too much. So unfortunately the mysteries of the deep would not yet be revealed to me. I did, however, book a snorkel tour on a real sailboat with Raggamuffin tours. Raggamuffin is located on the main street, just past the head of Crocodile street, and there I signed up to snorkel the Hol Chan Marine Reserve as well as shark ray alley and the coral gardens.

It’s said that coral reef at Hol Chan is just smaller than the Great Barrier reef, but more developed because it has been protected for longer. It certainly was a sight. Since the reefs are not in too deep of water, snorkeling is actually a pretty great way to tour them. I saw hawksbill sea turtles, moray eels, nurse sharks, sting rays, and many exceptional fish.

The guides were good too. Mine had two extremely long dreadlocks that were easy to follow under water. Whenever he’d see something of interest he would point to it and then gesture everyone up to the surface. He’d surface, drop the snorkel and call out the name. “Sergeant major fish, people. Sergeant major fish.” And then he’d pop the snorkel back in and dive down, scouting for more. He knew where they lived and what they ate so he could really draw some neat creatures out of their holes (like the moray eel), and yet he was very respectful of their environment too. When anyone swam too near the turtles he would gently stop them and gesture away. There’s a great respect for the reefs and reef life that I was happy to witness and participate in.

Though the Raggamuffin crew made sure we had a great time, with drinks and fresh fruit and confident guides, they could not ensure the mystic manatee would visit. The elusive sea cow was on the lam that day, and was one mammal I could not cross off my bucket list. The tour was absolutely worth it, and you don’t want to go to Belize without seeing their fantastic reefs. Do take Dramamine if you get seasick though because I watched a poor lady have just the worst time ever, so sick on the sea.

Another bonus to being on Caye Caulker this time of year was lobster for every meal. And that is what I had, and each night I had it in a different place. I had it at Wish Willie’s and at Rose’s too. But then I fell in with some islanders and heard that Enjoy Bar was the place to go. And it was. Get there a little before you are really hungry because they make you wait for it, but it is worth the wait. Wish I had one right now. The remainder I can’t believe I’m about to write. The Coca-Cola down there is exceptional. I don’t know if it’s the giant 500ml glass bottles with their perfect-fit long straws, or the fact that it’s made with real sugar. But they really are refreshing and easy on the stomach. And I don’t’ even drink Coke in the States! But down there I got what’s known as Belize belly, and lobster and Coca-Cola were just about the only two things I could stomach then.

We finished our stay on Caye Caulker by checking out two bikes and cruising the island. I wished we had done this sooner because it is the best way to check out the island. There were many lovely docks and homes out past the airport. I was fascinated with the above sea-level graveyards that were looking east out over the water. A grave marked the sunrise and sunset of one Crispin Rosado. I stepped back and to the side to see for myself the view that his headstone faced. The wind whipped the palms that neatly framed the sea, and far off the waves rolled in.

Spanish Blunders — Learning Spanish on the go

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Spanish Blunders: Or, the lessons that I learned the hard way.

Learning Spanish on the go 

Before traveling in Central America for the first time, I had taken one year of Spanish classes in high school (five years prior) and a five day crash course upon arriving in Costa Rica.

In terms of fluency, I was far from it. But when it came to getting by, I could do alright. Though not without many, many blunders. I reasoned that without much formal teaching, my mistakes were one of my best tools for learning. Especially when someone bothered to correct my mistakes, which didn’t always happen. Sometimes, I learned the hard way.

And most of the time, the mistakes weren’t so bad. Like the time I ordered a pastel (cake) for breakfast, which is apparently not the same as pasteles (pastry). Who doesn’t love cake?

Cafe Santa Clara 2a Av Sur (1)

I ate every bite.

Sometimes, however, the mistakes were a little more embarrassing. Which brings me to the start of my list of words that you should learn before traveling in Central America:

  • Embarasada: Okay, so this is actually a mistake I avoided, after having witnessed its misuse first hand. However, it is my go-to example of words that sound similar to English words, but have a different meaning in Spanish.

Embarasada means pregnant. It does not mean embarrassed. Hearing Kate, a classmate, apologize to a visiting professor for a fellow classmate’s behavior, by telling him how pregnant she was, helped drive home the word’s definition.

  • Miedo/Mierda: not knowing either word before I began traveling, I learned both words audibly. Being a strong visual-learner, this meant that I mixed them up several times before realizing my mistake.

Tengo miedo: Literary means, I have fear. Or, I am scared.

Mierda: Shit

Tengo mierda: Well, it would translate as I have shit.

How many times did I tell someone that “I have shit” when I was trying to say, “I am scared.” Several. How many times was I corrected? Not once. (Thanks, everyone.)

  • Jamon, Jabon, Sopa. What do these three Spanish words have in common? Perhaps only that I could not get them straight for my first week in a Spanish speaking country.

Jamon: ham

Jabon: soap

Sopa: soup

Maybe it’s just me. But I have asked if I could please have some soup after using a public restroom. And also for some ham. Soap and cheese sandwich. Yep. I’ve asked for that as well.

  • Punto/Puta: two more words that I had picked up through conversations and had trouble distinguishing at first.

Punto: Period. As in, what I am going to use to end this poorly constructed sentence.

Puta: Bitch.

The mistake I made was in telling the young man who worked at a hostel I was visiting that my email was “julia bitch m bitch flint @…..”

This is not a mistake I recommend making.

However, mierda happens… and we keep on tramping.