Prison Hammocks in Valladolid

Hammock Shopping in Valladolid Mexico (2)

Finding the best hammocks in Mexico, even if it means going to a Mexican prison to do so

“I want to stop at the prison. It will just be five minutes. Is that okay?” Jeffrey turned around to survey the blank, early morning stares from his fellow passengers.  No one voiced opposition; no one asked questions. It was early for debate. We were nine in total that morning: Jeffrey and his cousin, Marga, a group of four friends, a couple in their thirties, and myself in the van together. We came from various countries spread across at least three continents. Only maybe half of the group spoke any Spanish. We all slept at the same hostel and had all met at 7am for the first colectivo leaving the Mexican city of Valladolid for the wondrous, famous, high-traffic ruins at Chichén Itzá. (We had each been advised that if we didn’t make the first bus, the amount of people we would see at the ruins would seriously ruin the visit.)

The stop at the prison was a quick detour where we could shop for hammocks; the best made hammocks in the Yucatán, Jeffrey told us. (A quick Google search affirms that others agree that these hammocks are in fact the best… though of course there is debate.) Made by the inmates at the prison, these heavy-duty nylon hammocks have earned something of a reputation among hammock-seekers across the globe. Plus, they come in such a wide array of colors that Crayola would be inspired by the variety.

Size Large Hammock

Large Hammock

Those of us interested in buying a hammock or tired of sitting in the van were walking through the open air rows of hanging, woven, nylon colors while a guard watched close-by. We learned that the hammocks come in at least two sizes; we’ll say small and large. The small-sized hammocks looked easily big enough for two people. The large-sized hammocks looked big enough for my family to fit inside (see above photo.)

After a few moments of browsing it was clear that most of us would be leaving empty-handed. For some among us, the idea of carrying such a large item for several weeks or months, stuffed inside an already full backpack, was enough to squash the idea. For others nearing the end of a journey, pockets nearly empty, finances were the deciding factor… because the best hammocks in the Yucatán are an investment.

Hammock Shopping in Valladolid Mexico (4)

$1000 pesos, that is (around $75 USD.)

An investment in years of comfort and relaxation, no doubt; but still an investment. The asking price for a small hammock is around 600 pesos. The large hammocks are priced at 1000 pesos. In U.S. Dollars, the prison hammocks sell for roughly $45-$75, before any bargaining. And if I were to survey all the hammocks sold in the Yucatán, I would guess that I would find them sold much cheaper and much, much more expensive. As a comparison, the online company, Mérida Hammocks, sells their hammocks for between $22-$50 USD. Seaside Hammocks, also online, sells their hammocks for $34 to over $300 USD! I can’t comment on the quality of hammock from either company.

I can say, however, that I asked Jeffrey about his purchase from the prison. One year later, and he is still happy.

Helpful Hammock Information:

If you’re serious about owning a high-quality hammock, the prison near Valladolid is worth a visit. And if you want to do some reading before you make a purchase, the following websites will answer most questions you would have about Yucatán hammocks.

Merida Hammocks offers a FAQ on their website. This includes information on cotton vs. nylon, how to choose hammock sizes, and how to hang and care for your hammock.

Seaside Hammocks also has a FAQ page, with even more information. (These guys are serious about hammocks.) They also offer advice on How to Choose your Hammock and descriptions of the various hammock types: Mayan (the variety in the Yucatán), Nicaraguan, Brazilian, and American style.

(Spoiler alert: The American-style hammocks are the least comfortable of all.)

Market shopping for the holidays

Artisan Markets and More

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As Christmas comes nearer, I’m reminded of my travels last winter. Being thousands of miles from home around the holidays renewed my interest in holiday shopping. I browsed markets willingly and often with friends and family in mind. I limited most of my purchases to items that could be easily transported for weeks or months; thus, anything made of fabric was a good option, including a table runner and many small bags and coin purses. But I also shipped a box of presents home which allowed for larger and bulkier purchases.  In addition to the items that I came across repeatedly and that seemed available no matter where I went, below are a few items that weren’t as typical, and that I was not sure I would see again.

Wool Products from San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas, Mexico

One of my favorite spots for browsing handmade goods in all of my travels, the artisan market in San Cristobal has items that I didn’t find anywhere else on my trip. Woven and embroidered items are two of the region’s specialties, and everything from socks and ponchos to tiny handcrafted wool stuffed animals are found in the market stalls. The tiniest of animals are pretty much a must-buy if you have younger siblings or nieces and nephews back home. To get an idea of what the different varieties are, you can check out the products available at www.sweetbirds.com. For others on your list, hats and slippers and socks are great options for those returning to colder climates.

Spanish Language Cookbook from Lake Atitlan

It is hard to say how long copies of this book will be available. In late 2013 a few locations in San Pedro, on Lake Atitlan sold the book. Today if you ask around at the bookstore or museum in town, you may still find copies on the shelves. Celebrating the culinary traditions of the communities surrounding Lake Atitlan, this cookbook includes descriptions of eight municipalities surrounding the lake, as well as traditional recipes, each with a brief history of their origins, to go along with each locale. It is only available in Spanish, but for a cook who speaks the language, it’s an awesome gift to find.

The book title is “La Ruta del Sabor: gastronomia del Lago Atitlan

Farm Fresh Goodies from Caoba Farms in Antigua, Guatemala

While fresh produce isn’t something I’d recommend trying to ship home for the holidays, this organic farm located walking distance from downtown Antigua also offers an impressive collection of value-added products that are perfect gifts for those who appreciate where their food comes from. Organic coffee, chia seeds, and coconut oil are a few of the newer products that Caoba has added since my visit in late 2013. A number of small goodies like bags of candied ginger and herbal products are also available. The farm, which you can read about here, is a model for sustainable agriculture in the region and beyond. Learn more at www.caobafarms.com

Tailored skirts, pants, headbands and more in San Marcos, Guatemala

If you’ve fallen in love with the patterns on indigenous clothing around Lake Atitlan, there is a tiny shop in San Marcos that I think you should visit. While you can find clothing in several of the markets around the lake, one has to appreciate this particular man’s entrepreneurial efforts when it comes to selling clothing to tourists. Everything is hand-made, and you can custom order whatever your heart desires. A friend had two headbands made. Myself, feeling particularly practical that day, wanted to do something about the fact that I repeatedly would buy or refill a bottle of water and then leave it somewhere a few minutes later. I had a bag made that fit a water bottle perfectly and could be worn over the shoulder. (Also perfect for a bottle of wine, I would later discover.) If you want a gift that is truly unique and tailored to someone special, this is it.

Following the main walking path from the dock, this unassuming shop sits inside a cement building on your left. During my visit, there were shirts and pants and a beautiful hand-made guitar bag hanging on the outside of the building, and a pile of coconuts just on the other side of the walking path. Inside sits a tailor with a sewing machine and piles of fabric pieces.

Prison Hammocks near Valladolid, Mexico

I think this item is deserving of a separate post. But for now, if you are staying in Valladolid, Mexico and planning on visiting Chichen Itza, there is a prison between the two locations where I was informed that the sturdiest and best-made hammocks in the region were found. Judging by the hammock I had purchased a few years before on a beach in Nicaragua, the hammocks at the prison were absolutely of better quality. They are available in two sizes: single and double. The single looked big enough for two, however, and the double for an entire family, though we didn’t put this to the test. The came in all colors as well. Be warned that if you have a lot of traveling left to do, these will add a fair amount of bulk and weight to your pack. But for that person deserving of the best, these are the way to go.

Need more info? Have a favorite gift from your travels, or a shopping story? Email juliaflint@bordertramp.com

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