Category Archives: Tramper Narratives

Prison Hammocks in Valladolid

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Hammock Shopping in Valladolid Mexico (2)

Finding the best hammocks in Mexico, even if it means going to a Mexican prison to do so

“I want to stop at the prison. It will just be five minutes. Is that okay?” Jeffrey turned around to survey the blank, early morning stares from his fellow passengers.  No one voiced opposition; no one asked questions. It was early for debate. We were nine in total that morning: Jeffrey and his cousin, Marga, a group of four friends, a couple in their thirties, and myself in the van together. We came from various countries spread across at least three continents. Only maybe half of the group spoke any Spanish. We all slept at the same hostel and had all met at 7am for the first colectivo leaving the Mexican city of Valladolid for the wondrous, famous, high-traffic ruins at Chichén Itzá. (We had each been advised that if we didn’t make the first bus, the amount of people we would see at the ruins would seriously ruin the visit.)

The stop at the prison was a quick detour where we could shop for hammocks; the best made hammocks in the Yucatán, Jeffrey told us. (A quick Google search affirms that others agree that these hammocks are in fact the best… though of course there is debate.) Made by the inmates at the prison, these heavy-duty nylon hammocks have earned something of a reputation among hammock-seekers across the globe. Plus, they come in such a wide array of colors that Crayola would be inspired by the variety.

Size Large Hammock

Large Hammock

Those of us interested in buying a hammock or tired of sitting in the van were walking through the open air rows of hanging, woven, nylon colors while a guard watched close-by. We learned that the hammocks come in at least two sizes; we’ll say small and large. The small-sized hammocks looked easily big enough for two people. The large-sized hammocks looked big enough for my family to fit inside (see above photo.)

After a few moments of browsing it was clear that most of us would be leaving empty-handed. For some among us, the idea of carrying such a large item for several weeks or months, stuffed inside an already full backpack, was enough to squash the idea. For others nearing the end of a journey, pockets nearly empty, finances were the deciding factor… because the best hammocks in the Yucatán are an investment.

Hammock Shopping in Valladolid Mexico (4)

$1000 pesos, that is (around $75 USD.)

An investment in years of comfort and relaxation, no doubt; but still an investment. The asking price for a small hammock is around 600 pesos. The large hammocks are priced at 1000 pesos. In U.S. Dollars, the prison hammocks sell for roughly $45-$75, before any bargaining. And if I were to survey all the hammocks sold in the Yucatán, I would guess that I would find them sold much cheaper and much, much more expensive. As a comparison, the online company, Mérida Hammocks, sells their hammocks for between $22-$50 USD. Seaside Hammocks, also online, sells their hammocks for $34 to over $300 USD! I can’t comment on the quality of hammock from either company.

I can say, however, that I asked Jeffrey about his purchase from the prison. One year later, and he is still happy.

Helpful Hammock Information:

If you’re serious about owning a high-quality hammock, the prison near Valladolid is worth a visit. And if you want to do some reading before you make a purchase, the following websites will answer most questions you would have about Yucatán hammocks.

Merida Hammocks offers a FAQ on their website. This includes information on cotton vs. nylon, how to choose hammock sizes, and how to hang and care for your hammock.

Seaside Hammocks also has a FAQ page, with even more information. (These guys are serious about hammocks.) They also offer advice on How to Choose your Hammock and descriptions of the various hammock types: Mayan (the variety in the Yucatán), Nicaraguan, Brazilian, and American style.

(Spoiler alert: The American-style hammocks are the least comfortable of all.)

First Impressions: Caye Caulker Belize

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Snorkle tours, local lifestyle and lobster hunger that can’t be sated — Caye Caulker Belize

By: Laura Lazorski

It’s a good thing that Caye Caulker is so nice because I couldn’t get out of Belize City fast enough. It had a mangy film to it that the ferry to Caye Caulker blasted away with saltspray. The water got clearer and clearer as we progressed to the island, and after a short 30 minutes we pulled into a wind beaten dock in the white sun. The water here was clear as an aquarium, and silver fish cut by. I saw a barracuda circle suspiciously.

People are friendly on the island, and almost immediately we were being led to a hostel, called Dirty McNasty’s, by a local, named Gilbert. He does get incentive to scout for hostels (wink). But beyond that he is friendly as are the other islanders. Here, when you refuse sellers’ wares they just wave hello next time they see you rather than pushing the goods anew. They remember you, and you all end up at the split or the reggae bar later on.

The split is where everyone goes to swim. It is a deep channel carved by a hurricane that tore the island in two a long time ago. Supposedly, a crocodile lives there too, but I never saw him. There is a fun bar there, and a cement breaker, and everyone flops around drinking Belikin in the shallows or while treading water from the dock’s edge. The island’s motto is go slow. You see it scrawled over cement or worked into tour advertising schemes. Go slow the people remind you. It is a walking island except for a few ATV’s, so the people you pass all have a measured gait and an eye to the horizon. “Go slow, girl” they remind me as I hurry from the split to the hostel. It took a while to settle in, and I slowly began to wonder “where was I rushing to all the time?”

I came to Caye Caulker with the intent to get my open water diver’s certification. But alas, when we checked on the price it had gone up $100 and now cost an expensive $400 U.S. to be certified. Boo. We went to every dive shop on that island and of the few that even offered the class, $400 was the lowest quote. It was just too much. So unfortunately the mysteries of the deep would not yet be revealed to me. I did, however, book a snorkel tour on a real sailboat with Raggamuffin tours. Raggamuffin is located on the main street, just past the head of Crocodile street, and there I signed up to snorkel the Hol Chan Marine Reserve as well as shark ray alley and the coral gardens.

It’s said that coral reef at Hol Chan is just smaller than the Great Barrier reef, but more developed because it has been protected for longer. It certainly was a sight. Since the reefs are not in too deep of water, snorkeling is actually a pretty great way to tour them. I saw hawksbill sea turtles, moray eels, nurse sharks, sting rays, and many exceptional fish.

The guides were good too. Mine had two extremely long dreadlocks that were easy to follow under water. Whenever he’d see something of interest he would point to it and then gesture everyone up to the surface. He’d surface, drop the snorkel and call out the name. “Sergeant major fish, people. Sergeant major fish.” And then he’d pop the snorkel back in and dive down, scouting for more. He knew where they lived and what they ate so he could really draw some neat creatures out of their holes (like the moray eel), and yet he was very respectful of their environment too. When anyone swam too near the turtles he would gently stop them and gesture away. There’s a great respect for the reefs and reef life that I was happy to witness and participate in.

Though the Raggamuffin crew made sure we had a great time, with drinks and fresh fruit and confident guides, they could not ensure the mystic manatee would visit. The elusive sea cow was on the lam that day, and was one mammal I could not cross off my bucket list. The tour was absolutely worth it, and you don’t want to go to Belize without seeing their fantastic reefs. Do take Dramamine if you get seasick though because I watched a poor lady have just the worst time ever, so sick on the sea.

Another bonus to being on Caye Caulker this time of year was lobster for every meal. And that is what I had, and each night I had it in a different place. I had it at Wish Willie’s and at Rose’s too. But then I fell in with some islanders and heard that Enjoy Bar was the place to go. And it was. Get there a little before you are really hungry because they make you wait for it, but it is worth the wait. Wish I had one right now. The remainder I can’t believe I’m about to write. The Coca-Cola down there is exceptional. I don’t know if it’s the giant 500ml glass bottles with their perfect-fit long straws, or the fact that it’s made with real sugar. But they really are refreshing and easy on the stomach. And I don’t’ even drink Coke in the States! But down there I got what’s known as Belize belly, and lobster and Coca-Cola were just about the only two things I could stomach then.

We finished our stay on Caye Caulker by checking out two bikes and cruising the island. I wished we had done this sooner because it is the best way to check out the island. There were many lovely docks and homes out past the airport. I was fascinated with the above sea-level graveyards that were looking east out over the water. A grave marked the sunrise and sunset of one Crispin Rosado. I stepped back and to the side to see for myself the view that his headstone faced. The wind whipped the palms that neatly framed the sea, and far off the waves rolled in.