Arriving in Progesso, you’ll find yourself standing on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. On a bright and sunny day, we can imagine that the water would seem quite inviting. We imagine that strolling down the Malecon, and stopping in shops or restaurants, or simply lying on the beach and doing nothing, would be very appealing on a bright and sunny day.

During wind and rain and complete cloud cover, however, these were not such appealing options. Instead, we did what the local ex-pats were doing, and headed for BarloVento, on Calle 80.

And seriously, Progresso may be home to some of the kindest ex-pats that we have ever come across.

 

 

Getting // Going:

Buses for the beach town of Progresso leave Merida about every 10 minutes. They are comfortable, air-conditioned, and inexpensive. You’ll find the bus station on Calle 62 between 65 and 67, two blocks from Park.

Cost: P$18 one way, or P$33 for an open return ticket, which means you can use it at any time the same day. The last bus returns to Merida at 10:30pm. Though, always ask to be sure.

Once in Progesso, walking out of the Bus Station, you’ll see signs for “Playa” and “Downtown”. Head to your right outside of the Station, and take your next left to the beach (there will be signs.) If you cross the street, however, there is a line of small shops with fruits and veggies, if you want to stock up before the beach.

 

Sleeping:

There are several hotels in Progresso, but only one hostal that we could track down, and it’s in the process of being renovated. Located in a beautiful, and huge, colonial style home, it’s going to be a beautiful place when completed.

As of January, 2014, the bottom floor of the hostal was completed, and rooms were being rented. Private rooms and dorms are available. There is a nice kitchen, a nice back yard, comfortable beds, and clean bathrooms. WIFI is available, and breakfast is included.

Located several blocks from the bus station, head to Calle 21 and make a Right, then keep walking.

Calle 21 between Calles 54 y 56.

Phone: 969 103 0294 or 999 337 3499 (cell)

Email: h.boardinghome@gmail.com

 www.hotelprogresso.com

Eating:

What seems to be the most popular hang out for expats in Progresso, Barlo Vento (on Calle 80) is a smaller restaurant that accommodates large crowds by having almost twice as many tables outside as inside. Thursday is Happy Thursday, and beers are half price: P$15.

They have a nice food menu, and a really great wait-staff, and generally at any time of day and in any weather, a happy and welcoming crowd of foreigners.

And besides Barlo Vento, Sol y Mar was the other top-pick for a restaurant. You can find them on the corner of Calles 78 and 25.

Flamingos was also recommended,  offering excellent (really) hot-sauce, a nice view of the beach, and a variety of sea-food dishes. Prices are pretty consistent with other places on the Malecon… P$80 and up is a good bet. Beers are P$30.

 

Other information:

There are ATMs in Progresso, at least two on Calle 80. If leaving the beach, keep walking past BarloVento and you’ll see the bank.

Getting Around: There is no real need for a taxi, and on the cloudy day that I visited, I didn’t see any. The furthest you’ll have to walk would be to the Hostal, and it’s still only six or seven blocks.

Finally, when to visit:

Mondays and Wednesdays are the normal Cruise Ship Days at Progresso, bringing with them an influx of cruise ship tourists. Weekends, Progresso is a popular vacation destination for locals and foreigners alike. Other days of the week are a little quieter. Though everything is ultimately weather dependent, you can try to plan accordingly, especially if avoiding the cruise ships is a goal.

 Take me back to MERIDA //  Take me back to MEXICO // Take me HOME