Regardless of how many days you are in San Cristobal de las Casas, it should be easy to fill them with activities. In town, there are at least ten churches to visit, from the Central Cathedral, to the Iglesia de Guadalupe, which, after a healthy set of steps, offers beautiful views of the city. Even more impressive, however, is the hike to the church on top of Cerro del Cristobal. To reach the hill, head to the end of the pedestrian street Miguel Hildalgo, and make a Right on Hermanos Dominguez.
Nearby Villages:
Close to town, there are two nearby villages where Mayan culture dominates. If the restaurants and shops around the town center aren’t your main interest, just heading across town to catch a colectivo to nearby San Juan Chamula will open up to you what life is like where the tourist dollars aren’t flowing.
San Juan Chamula is the most popular destination, as Mayan culture dominates here. The main attraction in town is the Church,which, though Catholic in origin, is now a site for Mayan ceremonies and worship, and a very clear example of how the Mayan and Catholic faiths have blended together over time. Catholic saints line the inside of the church, with two rows of tables glowing with the lights of hundreds of candles. And regardless of when you visit, the church isn’t likely to be empty. It’s common to see healing ceremonies, most noted for their use of live chickens (which, no, are not sacrificed.)
Zinacantan is about 5 kilometers past San Juan Chamula, and with less tourist traffic, is just as interesting to visit.
To go, you have several options: From San Christobal you can rent horses for the ride to San Jaun. The cost is around P$200, however you aren’t likely to get information as part of the package. Similarly, you can rent bicycles for the trip. There are also information based tours that leave from San Cristobal, which you can find at any of the tourist offices. However, we were told that one of the best meets daily at the Cathedral Plaza at 9:30am. The guides are local, well informed, and familiar with the traditions and customs of the populations in both San Juan Chamula and in Zinacantan (The tour will visit both villages.) The cost is P$200. If you show up at the wooden cross in the Church Plaza around 9am or 9:15am, you should be guaranteed a spot.
You can also catch a colectivo to San Juan Chamula, and visit on your own. In town, head to the produce market, and make a left on Calle Honduras. Walk about two blocks, and on your right you’ll find the small terminal for San Juan. The cost is P$12.
In San Juan Chamula, there is a P$20 entrance fee to the church. Photography is absolutely prohibited, and from everything we’ve read and heard, this isn’t a rule that you should bend.
Also at the church, someone outside will likely offer you a brief tour with explanation, for P$35, or less for larger groups.
However, stopping by the Mayan Medicine Museum in San Cristobal before you go will also provide you with a lot of the background information you need to interpret what you’ll see inside the church. If going without a guide, visiting the Museum first is definitely recommended.
Colectivo vans drop you off at the Church Plaza in San Juan, so finding your way is easy. Rides back leave from the same spot.
Medicina Maya Museo:
More Photos
Located past the Market, on the far side of San Cristobal, the Medicine Museum is part of an interesting program that works to support the healing practices of indigenous groups within the state of Chiapas in Mexico.
The museum itself is small, but it’s your best bet for gathering information for an overview of the different types of healers and ceremonies that are practiced locally. There is a short video about midwives and birth practices that plays in both Spanish and English. Also there are English Guide books available that explain what you will see in each of the rooms. Outside is a garden where you can view some of the plants traditionally used in making medicines, as well as a traditional Mayan Sauna. There is also a pharmacy on site, where traditional medicines are sold.
To get there, you can head down Calle Utrilla, which passes both the artisan market and produce market. After the Terminal, the road will curve to the left, and you’ll continue walking for what we were told was 300 meters, though it easily feels longer. The museum will be at corner of the next large intersection that you come to, on the left side of the street. Also here, if you’ve come hungry, the street leading to the museum is lined with small eateries and taquerias, probably the best options for cheap eats is along this stretch of road.
Natural Wonders:
In San Cristobal you can also take tours to a number of slightly further away destinations, the best of which are El Chiflon (though it’s a much shorter trip from Comitan) and the Sumidero Canyon. Prices for either will be around P$300-P$350, and ask around because the El Chiflon tours can also include a visit to the lakes at Montebello, which are also worth seeing (and also closer to Comitan.)
GETTING // GOING • SLEEPING • EATING • DOING