In San Cristobal’s Centro Historico, which surrounds the cathedral, park, and Plaza 31 de Marzo, restaurants and cafes line the three main walking streets that all meet at the park. Many of the restaurants are small, with only a handful of tables that spill out onto the sidewalks where you can enjoy the ambiance of the streets. Tacos, pizza, crepes… you’ll find it all. There are Italian and Argentinian restaurants, French bakeries, and at least one vegetarian/vegan restaurant, all reflecting the tastes of the diverse groups of tourists who visit. P$35 is the lower end of what you can expect to pay for a meal. P$35-$70 is a good bet for budget options at most places ($2.70-$5.40 USD), which won’t hurt the bank too badly, and sometimes this includes a drink.

However, somehow hidden amongst all the varied tastes is a small storefront where tamales sit steaming in giant pots, and are sold for P$8. And if you haven’t grown tired of tamales, these ones are wonderful. One will hold you over, and two is a solid meal.

The hours are listed as 10:30am-1pm, and from 4pm-8pm, though we’ve only seen this place open on weekends. If closed, it looks just like a door to someone’s home. There really isn’t a sign. If open, it’s still easy to miss. You’ll maybe catch a glimpse of the silver pots sitting just inside the doorway. A closer look reveals a couple of tables, where you can sit down and enjoy your meal. You can also take it go. Don’t forget the salsa.

If you are leaving the park on Real de Guadalupe, as soon as you cross Diego Dugelay (where Guadalupe ceases to become a pedestrian street) the tamales will be on the right side of the street, very close to the corner.

Shopping:

Given that communal kitchens are a norm in San Cristobal, it’s worth finding a market if you would rather save your extra pesos for cervezas and souvenirs, and cook at home on the cheap.

To get there from the main plaza, you can head down the pedestrian street, 20 de Noviembre. When you reach the intersection with Escuadron 201, the Templo De La Caridad, and the Artisan Market will be in front of you. Take a right here, and then your next left on Gral M. Utrilla, and after about one block you’ll start to see vendors spilling out into the streets. Here you’ve reached the Mercado Municipal Jose Castillo Tielemans. Also in this area, between the streets Noviembre and Utrilla, is a supermarket. It’s larger than the one located on Real de Guadalupe, which carries the basics, and plenty of booze, but not many hard to find items.

Also, just off of Guadalupe, along Diego Dugaley you can find several small tiendas selling fresh produce. Walking away from the park, if you turn right on Jose Maria Santiago (it’s the same street as Diego, just a different name on this side), there will be two tiendas on the first block, and you should be able to stock up on what you need. Dairy products are sold on this block also, at Lacteos Maya.

Street Meat:

As always, head toward the main parks and markets. In San Cristobal, you can find some great food options on 20 de Noviembre, beside the square with the Artisan Market. If you’ve headed to this side of town to shop, you won’t be disappointed if you show up hungry. Delicious soups, served with tortillas are available for around P$25. Also you can purchase tiny tacos, ranging in price from P$1.5-$P5. Fresh squeezed orange juice is available, as well as fresh fruits.

Also on the streets surrounding the Mercado Municipal, street food begins to multiply. Fried corn, chips, fruit, doughnuts, tacos, ice cream. You’ll find it all. And the prices here can’t be beat.

Dining Out:

We’ve mentioned that you aren’t going to go hungry, strolling along the main streets in Historic San Cristobal. There are really more bars, restaurants, and cafes than we would care to count. Here are a few that stood out:

Check out photos of Dining Out in San Cristobal

Cafe Natura always seems to have a crowd, primarily foreign, and quite often the same crowd  that can be found selling hand made jewelry to tourists along Guadalupe. It’s a favorite stop for coffee or hot chocolate. There’s usually always something to see. You can find Natura on the corner of Guadalupe and Belisano Dominguez.

Tonantzin: is located on the corner of Guadalupe and Cristobal Colon. They offer standard fare, from sandwiches and salads to enchiladas, but most dishes have a vegetarian option. A variety of fresh juices are also on the menu.

Parvali: Offering not only vegetarian, but vegan options, Parvali’s menu includes veggie burgers and falafal, salads, and a daily special. Make a right at the intersection with Diego, and you’ll see the sign for “Veggie Food”

Fish Tacos: Best served on a beach, we are still always glad to see fish tacos, regardless of where we are. (We’ve had awesome catfish tacos in Charleston, West Virginia). You can find them on Real De Guadalupe, after Diego Dugelay, about halfway down the next block on the left. Tacos range from P$24-P$34. And most days they open later in the afternoon.

El Puente Cinema: offers movies every night, most often about Mexico/Chiapas, and often in Spanish, but with English subtitles. The cost is P$30, and you can find them at Real de Guadalupe 55, in the Centro Cultural. This is on the right side of the street, before the intersection with Diego. There is a Spanish School in the same building, and a vegetarian restaurant where meals start around P$45. However, for cheap eats, Monday-Saturday in the evenings, just outside the door you can find tortillas being cooked for quesadillas that are made to order, with a variety of fillings, for P$18 ($1.40 USD).

Revolucion: A well known, and well loved bar in town, Revolucion offers live music every night of the week. And whatever you’re taste, you’re sure to find it, from Jazz to Electronic. Early shows are at 8:30pm, and the later shows at 10:30. Bar food is available: nachos, sandwiches, etc, at the same prices you’ll find elsewhere in town. And it goes great with the beer. Just a block away from the Zocolo, Revolucion is located on the corner of 1 de Marzo and 20 de Noviembre (pedestrian street.)

More photos of La Colombiana

La Colombiana: A perfect example of the mix of dining options available on Real de Guadalupe, Colombiana is a tiny space with a handful of tables inside and a few others spilling out onto the sidewalk. Offering sweet and savory crepes, as well as Colombian foods (arepas, empanadas… see Menu Photos for descriptions) as well as quesadillas and even baguettes, there should be something for everyone at La Colombiana. There are also three types of cheeses on the menu, and even the hot chocolate is offered with cheese on the side. A worthy and bold experiment for those not accustomed… we’ll say no more.

There are menu items for under P$30, for those sticking to a budget. And for a meal, prices start around P$45 ($3.50) and up…

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